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FOOD & WINE

Troy Pudney, the manager and sommelier of Cartwright’s, takes Foodies Susie Timm and Jay Pizarro on a culinary adventure – read the rest of this month’s review in our January issue.

Cartwright’s prides itself on its unique dinner menu that features elk and buffalo as well as other New American cuisine that has distinct “ranch” influences.
We were first presented with an amuse of Duck Confit on an Onion Baguette with Apricot Salsa. It had a spicy and savory kick that balanced out the sweetness of the apricot on very soft bread. A splendid start!
Next, Troy offered us his Sandia Tequila, which is watermelon infused tequila that takes two weeks to make. It was killer. I mean that literally as I think if I drank too much of it, I might die of watermelon bliss. I don’t even LIKE tequila!
On the docket next was Pan-seared Quail over Jack Cheese Grits with a hint of blackberry. Jay was in heaven as he is a quail connoisseur. I loved the grits! It’s been a year of grits for me and each time I try them they are better and better.
House-made Buffalo Sausage on Sonoran Slaw was presented on the other end of the quail platter. I can’t say enough about this sausage. It was smoky, spicy and the outside had a crunch unlike most other sausage wannabes. I would like it in a breakfast burrito or with a side of eggs. Troy told us the kitchen staff frequently heists the buffalo sausage for various food experiments – Jay and I want an invite next time!
Troy brought over another one of his signature cocktails: an all-natural vodka drink made with strawberries, thyme and balsamic vinegar. I enjoyed the layers of flavor and how the thyme really accented the strawberry flavor.
Now it was time for the Beet Salad over Field Greens. Many of our loyal blog readers know my opinion of beets. “Ew” pretty much sums it up. However, I am a changed woman. This beet salad was the best beet item I have ever tasted! It had a sherry and olive oil dressing, pickles and those merlot-colored goodies! I would drive 20 miles to eat that salad again in a heartbeat! Troy paired this salad with a chardonnay that again, we are not huge fans of, however the acidity of the salad combined with the chardonnay really made for an intense flavor explosion!
At this point in the meal, Jay and I started to realize that Troy is one of the most passionate “foodies” we have met in a very long time. The pride with which he talks about his cocktails, wine list and menu is palpable. The light in his eyes showed a true respect for his craft.
The main course was a Petite Elk Filet served with mashed potatoes and brocollini as well as a Mediterranean Prepared Sea Bass served with artichokes (score!), onion, garlic and Pesto Angel Hair Pasta.
I admit, fellow Foodies, this was the first time I have tried elk. It was awesome! Cartwright’s ages it in-house. I found it tender, rich and peppery.
I was astounded, however, by the sea bass. The flaky texture showed a fish cooked to perfection. I am also a fan of any fish that melts in my mouth.
Mr. Mixologist himself came by again and offered Jay a taste of bacon infused bourbon. I am allergic to any whiskey or bourbon but was pleased to hear about the process Troy uses to make this special drink. He serves it in a glass with a perfectly clear sphere of water that is reminiscent of the ice balls we used to create as naughty children in Wisconsin. Very impressive indeed!
For dessert we tasted a Lime Ricotta Cheesecake, Apple Fritters with Crème Anglaise and homemade sorbets of apricot, prickly pear and melon.
Chef Kevin Janeski and owners Eric Flatt and John Malcolm have mastered the rustic, Sonoran Ranch House both in style and cuisine!
Cartwright’s is one of those restaurants you leave completely contented. We were outright impressed with everything from the food to the ambiance, the service and the passion of the employees.

FOOD & WINE Foodies Like Us Online Extra | CITYSunTimes January 2010