CITYSunTimes Web Exclusive March 2010
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FOOD & WINE

Jay and Susie “love champagne, bacon and a perfectly cooked medium steak; restaurants with ambiance and that special cozy feeling that makes us feel welcome;” and most importantly, they “expect fabulous service.” – read the rest of this month’s review in our March issue.

I arrived a few minutes after Jay did and he was already propped up on the leather couch, sipping champagne and playing on his laptop. “Good sign,” I thought as I approached him.
I settled onto the couch and took in my surroundings. The place had seen quite a transformation from the dark and cavernous prior occupant, “Fine’s Cellar.”
5th and Wine, a brainchild of Rich Sullivan, Patrick King and Tom Kaufmann, does “comfortable and affordable” really well.
There was a great bar to saddle up to, and we took advantage of 5th and Wine’s outstanding happy hour prices ($5 wines and $3 appetizers).
There were several constellations of red leather chairs, coffee tables and couches to relax, and sip wine.
There were tables for dining and eating a full dinner or lunch.
There was a gigantic outside patio that would be perfect to take in a beautiful desert sunset with friends.
I also really liked the brightly colored dog paintings that grace every wall. It gave the space a really unique feel that was warm and bright. Each table also had fresh and brightly colored flowers in a sleek vase in the center.
I was sold on the décor alone. Now, on to the food!
With my $5 glass of Scharffenberger Brut in hand, we invited Assistant Manager Scott Von Gullbrantz and Manager Scott Yanni (or the Scotts as I like to call them) to sit with us to explain the concept behind 5th and Wine.
Executive Chef Stephen Butler pulled up a chair as well to round out our interview.
These men have a world of experience at various five-star steak places in town from Mastro’s to Fleming’s. It’s these fine dining restaurants that shaped the service expectations for 5th and Wine, but also encouraged them to try another approach to dining.
“This is a fun, relaxed and approachable place. We wear jeans to work and run it at a very different pace,” explained Yanni.
Von Gullbrantz says, “We really wanted this place to be an easy drop-in destination.”
The value and menu pricing was almost shocking. The most expensive item is $19.95 but the average ticket is only $12.
“People are tired of staying at home – they want options and that’s what we are providing,” says Butler.
They explained the food to me as “straight forward cooking with not a lot of fluff.” Hmmm…sounds right up my alley!
The menu will continue to evolve, but for now it included many plates for sharing, including eight varietals of bruschetta, cheese plates and spicy chicken drumettes.
There are also paninis and salads. The new weekly specials menu boasts chicken pesto pasta, an agave bourbon glazed salmon and a rib eye. All for less than $20.
At this point, I was sick of hearing about the food – I wanted to taste it!
Von Gullbrantz brought us a selection of their greatest hits. Speaking of hits, Von Gullbrantz also hand crafted the overhead music and created a mix that includes John Mayer, Jason Mraz and other mainstream and comforting artists. It was soothing and I always enjoy it when I can sing during my supper.
We sampled six different bruschettas, the crispy French fries (of Humble Pie fame) and the chicken pesto pasta that featured scratch made pesto sauce.
The French fries were served with garlic aioli and were crisped to perfection. Topped with chili flakes, they had a searing kick. (We returned two days later for these fries; they were that good!)
The chicken pesto pasta was tasty, but did not overwhelm. The pesto was strong but I would like to see different pasta other than farfalle.
The bruschetta was varied in flavors and content. The fig, prosciutto, mascarpone and tomato jam was an outstanding flavor combination of salty and sweet.
The apple, Brie, fig jam, honey and agave bruschetta reminded me of a grown-up peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Strange since there was no peanut butter in sight, but the creamy Brie and fig jam were a nice stand-in.
The hummus and saffron oil bruschetta was slightly disappointing as the hummus was bland.
I was downright surprised by the delightful roasted peppers, goat cheese and garlic combination as I typically do not like roasted red peppers cold. I will return for this one.
Overall, we enjoyed the food and look forward to sampling more of the bruschettas and sandwiches on the menu.
I think Yanni summed up 5th and Wine pretty well: “It can be your local wine bar, it can be a restaurant, it is versatile and will change to fit whatever is appropriate for you.”

FOOD & WINE Foodies Like Us Web Exclusive | CITYSunTimes March 2010